The so-called Grand Canyon of Oman is in Jebel Shams, the highest mountain in the country, reaching 3,000 m above sea-level. The canyon is a 1,000 m deep gorge cut into the heart of the mountain, and comprises a couple of wadis, namely Wadi Nakhr and Wadi Ghul. There are several ways to explore the area, including the famous Balcony Walk, a trail in altitude that follows the rim of the canyon, and that affords spectacular views from above. This time I decided to walk in the bottom of the canyon, along the wadi itself, which provides a completely different experience. I did this trek in early December, and I have enjoyed every minute of it; there was plenty of running water, and the cooler temperature was a bonus.
As with many places in Oman, the Jebel Shams area has become very popular with tourists, but Wadi Nakhr is still relatively quiet. The total distance is about 12 km (round trip), which can also be made in a 4WD vehicle. I prefer to walk, so I recommend leaving the car at the entrance of the wadi, and then simply follow the gravel road. Right at the entrance, there is a picturesque old village; the houses are now abandoned, but the agricultural fields are still well maintained. It is worth it to meander through the palm trees and old mudbrick buildings. After that, it is a leisurely walk, with plenty of small pools, running water, and numerous large boulders; these are a strong reminder of the power of flashfloods that occur periodically during heavy rain. As always, if rain is forecasted, do not venture into the wadi.
After a couple of km, the canyon starts to narrow down, its walls become taller, and you can fully appreciate the immense scale of the gorge. You will be literally walking inside the mountain range, with all the rock layers telling a geologic story that spans hundreds of millions of years. For most of the way, the canyon will be in the shade, with the occasional sunny section; this makes for an interesting interplay of light, but it can be challenging for photography. I decided to preserve detail in the highlights, thus underexposing the shadows; later I compensated for that when developing the imaging files. For this trip I chose to bring a wide-angle zoom lens, to be able to include the wadi, canyon walls, and sky in the framing.
The trail ends at the head of the canyon, after a small village with a few houses and agricultural terraces. The crisp December air allows an excellent view of the mountain peaks higher up. A few villagers take the opportunity to sell their local products to visitors; colorful carpets weaved from goat’s wool and honey are common. I also happened upon a group of people that were painting the magnificent surrounding landscape. I had my picnic lunch nearby and rested for a while. From here, there is a trail path that leads to the top of the mountain, but it is only for the truly well fit. Perhaps another day…
After exploring the area for a little while longer, I headed back, walking in complete tranquility. The prevailing silence was only disturbed by the wind rushing through the trees and by the running water. In the distant cliffs, you can spot some groups of goats climbing the challenging heights with ease. I increased my pace because I wanted to be out of the wadi before sunset, to make the most of the light on the village at the entrance. My plan was also to stop on the way to Muscat, to visit the old village of Tanuf, but I will write about that in a different piece.
