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The Jebel Shams Mountain is home to some of the most beautiful landscapes you can find in Oman. It takes several trips to fully explore the region, which can be done via a handful of trails. You can walk along Wadi Nakhr, an easy going walk that takes you through the middle of the mountain, that I have described before:

Wadi Nakhr – inside the Grand Canyon of Oman

And you can drive all the way up to experience one of the most famous trails in Oman, the so-called “Balcony Walk”. I have recently spent one weekend in Jebel Shams to walk along this old donkey trail, which follows the western rim of the mountain, with fantastic views over Oman’s Grand Canyon. I walked this trail before, in 2006, so I was keen to go back nearly 20 years later. I carried with me the Fujifilm X-T5, with the Fujinon 14mm f/2.8 and 70-300mm f/4.5 – 5.6 lenses. Plus my trusty tripod.

The drive between Muscat and Jebel Shams is an easy one, passing through Nizwa, Tanuf, and Hamra. From Hamra, it will take about 1 hour to reach the top, mostly through a graded road that is perfectly safe, as there are no steep inclines or hairpin turns. You will be climbing the southern flank of the mountain, which is much gentler compared to the northern one. As it is end of January, the weather is cold, with maximum temperatures usually a good 15 degrees centigrade lower than in the plains below. I was camping for one night, so I came well prepared with warm clothing. At 2,000 m above sea-level, freezing temperatures are common in the winter months. 

Compared to 20 years ago, things have changed a bit, there are now a couple of resorts, so camping is not required anymore. Still, that is my preference, as I want to fully enjoy the quiet isolation and the mountain environment. I chose my campsite location to be close to the edge of the canyon, with a fantastic view over the entire Jebel Shams. I recognized the radar installation and antennas on the other side of the canyon, built at the highest point. After setting up my tent, I walked around the area until sunset, taking photos of the Grand Canyon, which is impressive. I was looking down into Wadi Nakhr 1,000 m below, and I was able to recognize a couple of villages from my previous walk in the wadi. I could also see the narrow trail that I would be taking the next day, seemingly a thin trace on the side of the mountain. The visibility was great, thanks to the absence of haze.  

Walking around the plateau there are many other interesting subjects to photograph; the landscape is barren, dominated by rocky outcrops, isolated olive trees and bushes, and with the surrounding tall peaks in the background. One of those peaks is the famous Jebel Misht, with its peculiar raised triangular profile. I had a brief encounter with some wild donkeys, goats, and spotted some birds of prey hovering in the sky. After sunset, I returned to my camping spot to have a meal and prepare for the night photography session; it was new moon, so I wanted to benefit from the darkness. As expected, the temperature dropped quickly, so I put on an extra layer of warm clothes and gloves. I set my camera and lens on the tripod, programmed the interval timer to do its job, and then went to sleep. 

I woke up before sunrise as the first light of the day illuminated the mountain range, in an unforgettable display. After having breakfast and packing up the camping gear, I drove the short distance to the beginning of the Balcony Walk trail, in the village of Al Khitaym. As I said before, this is not a difficult or technical walk, with a total round-trip distance of about 8 km and approximately 350 m of elevation gain. Even though it is a safe walk, it is an old and narrow donkey trail that connected Al Khitaym and As Sab villages, below the rim of the mountain. If you are afraid of heights, make sure you are comfortable with it. I chose to do this walk in the early morning because this side of the canyon would be sunny, with better light for photography. In the afternoon the trail will be under shade, which might be preferable if you visit during the warmer months.  

The path follows the gentle slope of the rock layers downhill, and I stopped many times for photos, as the vistas are incredible. Looking up, I recognized the spot where I had been taking photos the previous day, at the top of a massive rock formation. Admiring the canyon from the rim is a great experience, but walking this trail, below the rim, makes you feel like you are really part of the landscape. This is a popular walk, so soon I was meeting other fellow trekkers, even this early in the day. The path is narrow, but there is enough space to accommodate other people, so you can walk at your own pace and stop when and where you wish without any problems. 

Continuing my walk, after a while I reached the abandoned houses of As Sab. These were built under a rock overhang, and one can only wonder at the skills of its inhabitants, who also built the nearby farming terraces. The sense of isolation is impressive. The terraces were built where the two sides of the canyon come together and seem to be literally hanging from the steep mountain face. Below them, an enormous erosion feature has carved what looks like a scar on the rock face. After reaching the terraces, I stopped for a rest under welcomed shade; even with the cold temperature, walking under the sunshine will make you warm. Normally, for most people, the trail will end here but is possible to walk a bit further to reach a secluded cave and lake. To get there, it is necessary to follow a path that climbs around a few boulders, and which is signaled only with some white paint markers. I reached the cave and the lake after about 10 minutes and rested under the shade for a while.  

A group of Omanis from Hamra was already there, and they asked me to join them; this is typical Omani hospitality, and soon we were sharing our stories and food, including coffee, dates, and fruit. A welcomed and healthy snack after a 2-hour walk. It was nice to sit under the shade of the cave, looking outside into the lake and the mountain. There are even a few stalactites and stalagmites to admire. When it rains, a waterfall runs over the entrance, in what must be a wonderful sight. 

It was time to return, so I made my way back to the trail. Now it was uphill all the way, but still with a gentle slope. I noticed the trail was busier at this mid-morning time, which is normal. After an uneventful trek, I was back at the village and my car. This had been a wonderful weekend in Jebel Shams. The magic of the mountain has not changed one bit in 20 years. 

The Al Hoota cave (meaning “guide” in Arabic) is in the foothills of Jebel Shams, just before the village of Al Hamra. With its numerous stalactites, stalagmites, and halls, it is well worth a visit if you happen to be in the area. That is what I did recently, combining the visit to the cave with a visit to the Wadi Al Ayn Beehive Tombs; you can see the location of both sites in the map below. 

The cave was discovered by locals several hundred years ago, is around 5 km long and is believed to be the longest cave in Oman. It is home to many animal species, including blind cave fish, bats, and others. It is estimated to be over 2 million years old, and has been slowly carved out by water, as it dissolved the limestone rock. Given its sensitive ecosystem, there is a limit to the number of daily visitors, but you can plan and book your ticket online. Once inside the cave, you follow a path which is about 800 m long, and that allows you to admire the many rock formations, including the famous “lion”. The cave complex is much larger than the area open to the public; in fact, the cave extends for several km, including a few lakes; the path takes you close to the first lake, which is framed by complete darkness as it disappears into the distance. 

It is possible to take photos inside the cave, without the use of flash. Light levels are low, but still I managed to come away with good photos, including wide views taken with the phone. Pay attention to the different types of illumination and lighting, which have been chosen to enhance specific features and formations. As a geologist, I enjoyed this visit very much, and highly recommend it. There is also a small geological museum in the main building, which describes the geological history of Oman and the development of the cave, complete with many rock samples. 

Once the visit was finished, it was time to have lunch, so I found some shade in a nearby wadi and had a nice picnic. The weather in January has been excellent, with lower temperatures and good visibility, without the typical heat haze obscuring the mountains. The plan for the afternoon was to drive to the next stop of my trip, the Al Ayn Beehive Tombs near Jebel Misht. I visited the place several years ago and remember being impressed by the scenery, so I was looking forward to returning.  Jebel Misht is famous for its peculiar shape, rising prominently from the surrounding plain like a ship’s bow. 

To get there, I chose to drive along a scenic gravel road a few km after Wadi Nakhr, crossing a couple of hills and valleys. I stopped a few times to take some photos and enjoy the landscape and the quietness. After some twists and turns, the road finally descends into a large plain, where it connects with the main blacktop road to Wadi Al Ayn. Soon it is possible to admire Jebel Misht, and after a while you will see the beehive tombs about 200m from the road. These are located along the ridge of a hill, with Jebel Misht as backdrop. This archaeological site was declared World Heritage by UNESCO in 1988, and it has been dated to the 3^rd millenium BC. Copper and stone (diorite) have been extracted from the surrounding mountains for thousands of years, with evidence of trade with other regions. 

I parked the car in the wadi and made my way uphill towards the tombs. The scenery is impressive, and I walked around for quite some time, feeling transported back in time. Today, we can see the nearby small village and the green farms; probably the setting was not very different 5,000 years ago, with settlements in the valley, and with more abundant rain? One thing I am sure of is that our ancestors already admired Jebel Misht, as much as we do today. 

All photos in this article were made with my Fujifilm X-T5 camera and Voigtlander X 27mm f/2 lens, complemented with my phone’s wide-angle lens module (inside the cave). I also made many overlapping images with the purpose of assembling them in panoramas later. 

The village of Tanuf is located about halfway between Nizwa and Bahla. The name is instantly recognizable in Oman due to the drinking water brand that is bottled nearby, sourced from the springs in Wadi Tanuf. However, one of the main attractions of Tanuf are the ruins of the old village, often referred to as “Tanuf Castle Ruins”. These are easy to get to and are visible from the main road. Located at the foot of the Jebel Akhdar mountains, they seem to guard the entrance to Wadi Tanuf, which you can also explore further if you have a 4WD vehicle. 

This old village comprises many mudbrick buildings and houses, and was inhabited until the Jebel Akhdar war of the 1950’s. This war lasted between 1954 and 1959 and opposed the Imamate of Oman (interior of the country) to the Sultanate of Muscat and Oman (coastal area). The Jebel Akhdar Mountain, including Tanuf, witnessed intense fighting between the two parties, and these ruins are a stark reminder of the conflict. 

The best time to visit the ruins is close to sunset, when the buildings and the southern mountain face are bathed in golden light. Walking among these old houses and the narrow streets, feels like a window into the past, to a time when modern day luxuries were absent. It is also better to visit during the winter months, when the temperature is lower, and the air is crisper, allowing for a good visibility of the surrounding landscape. I stopped in Tanuf coming back from Wadi Nakr, and spent almost 1 hour there, just walking around and taking photos under the wonderful light. 

The so-called Grand Canyon of Oman is in Jebel Shams, the highest mountain in the country, reaching 3,000 m above sea-level. The canyon is a 1,000 m deep gorge cut into the heart of the mountain, and comprises a couple of wadis, namely Wadi Nakhr and Wadi Ghul. There are several ways to explore the area, including the famous Balcony Walk, a trail in altitude that follows the rim of the canyon, and that affords spectacular views from above. This time I decided to walk in the bottom of the canyon, along the wadi itself, which provides a completely different experience. I did this trek in early December, and I have enjoyed every minute of it; there was plenty of running water, and the cooler temperature was a bonus. 

As with many places in Oman, the Jebel Shams area has become very popular with tourists, but Wadi Nakhr is still relatively quiet. The total distance is about 12 km (round trip), which can also be made in a 4WD vehicle. I prefer to walk, so I recommend leaving the car at the entrance of the wadi, and then simply follow the gravel road. Right at the entrance, there is a picturesque old village; the houses are now abandoned, but the agricultural fields are still well maintained. It is worth it to meander through the palm trees and old mudbrick buildings. After that, it is a leisurely walk, with plenty of small pools, running water, and numerous large boulders; these are a strong reminder of the power of flashfloods that occur periodically during heavy rain. As always, if rain is forecasted, do not venture into the wadi. 

After a couple of km, the canyon starts to narrow down, its walls become taller, and you can fully appreciate the immense scale of the gorge. You will be literally walking inside the mountain range, with all the rock layers telling a geologic story that spans hundreds of millions of years. For most of the way, the canyon will be in the shade, with the occasional sunny section; this makes for an interesting interplay of light, but it can be challenging for photography. I decided to preserve detail in the highlights, thus underexposing the shadows; later I compensated for that when developing the imaging files. For this trip I chose to bring a wide-angle zoom lens, to be able to include the wadi, canyon walls, and sky in the framing. 

The trail ends at the head of the canyon, after a small village with a few houses and agricultural terraces. The crisp December air allows an excellent view of the mountain peaks higher up. A few villagers take the opportunity to sell their local products to visitors; colorful carpets weaved from goat’s wool and honey are common. I also happened upon a group of people that were painting the magnificent surrounding landscape. I had my picnic lunch nearby and rested for a while. From here, there is a trail path that leads to the top of the mountain, but it is only for the truly well fit. Perhaps another day… 

After exploring the area for a little while longer, I headed back, walking in complete tranquility. The prevailing silence was only disturbed by the wind rushing through the trees and by the running water. In the distant cliffs, you can spot some groups of goats climbing the challenging heights with ease. I increased my pace because I wanted to be out of the wadi before sunset, to make the most of the light on the village at the entrance. My plan was also to stop on the way to Muscat, to visit the old village of Tanuf, but I will write about that in a different piece.  

The beginning of Autumn has brought to Oman lower temperatures, with the weather being more amenable for outdoor activities. As such, I took the opportunity to camp in one of my favorite spots in the Jebel Akhdar mountains, Sharaf Al Alamein. As I described in a previous post (see link below) it is possible to reach this location via a black top road, approaching from the village of Hamra. However, if you want to experience true off-road driving along one of the most scenic roads in the Middle East, I recommend you take the road along Wadi Bani Awf. It is a spectacular one, with some final few km of steep ascent. 

In the Heart of the Mountains

There are many interesting spots along Wadi Bani Awf: cool narrow gorges cut into the rock with slow flowing water and some pools, picturesque mountain villages and farms. All of these were not new to me, as I have taken this road many times in the past. However, surprises can still happen, this time in the form a wonderful waterfall hitherto unknown to me. By a fortunate coincidence, I found it near the place where I had stopped for a picnic lunch. I heard the water and made my way through the rocks until I found the waterfall. 

Depending on how many stops you make along the way, it can take between 5 to 6 hours to drive from Muscat to Sharaf Al Alamein, so take you time and enjoy the views. After setting up camp, I went for a walk near the edge of the mountain, which affords fantastic views over Wadi Bani Awf, Wadi Sahtan, and even Oman’s highest mountain (Jebel Shams, at 3,000 m above sea – level). I took some good photos just before and during sunset. At night the temperature drops considerably, so make sure you pack warm clothing; I also recommend bringing some firewood to make a nice campfire.  

That night it was new moon, so I carried out a photo session for star trails, framing a familiar tree against Polaris. This location is not as dark as it was in the past; the light pollution from Nizwa and Hamra is quite visible, but it still is a nice for night photography. After a good night’s sleep, I woke up to a gorgeous sunrise; it was wonderful to sit on the edge of the cliffs and see how the first light of the morning progressively illuminated the landscape, starting with the peaks of Jebel Shams to the northwest. This is a trip I have always enjoyed doing, and this time it was no exception. 

Photos were taken with Fujifilm X-T5 camera and Fujinon 33mm f/1.4 and Viltrox 13mm f/1.4 lenses.

One of these past weekends I found myself once again in the beautiful village of Wakan, in the Oman mountains. My last visit had been in the spring, when the fruit trees were in bloom. This time, in the autumn, I wanted to check the pomegranate season; Wakan has a good number of pomegranate trees, distributed in the cultivated terraces. Together with other fruits and vegetables, they are an important source of income for the local people. 

Every time I visit Wakan, I walk the nearby trail, which snakes up from the village to the top of the mountain. This is a difficult trek, because the terrain is rough, with some loose rocks and narrow passages overlooking precipitous cliffs. Still, it affords fantastic views over the Gubrah bowl and Wadi Mistal, a few hundred meters below. 

After parking the car (you need a 4WD), I wandered about the cultivated terraces, enjoying the sound of the water running along the several falaj, and the shade under the green trees. Leaving the village behind me, I walked along the trail for about 3 hours, before resting near the top. When I had arrived in the morning, the weather had been sunny, with a nice blue sky all around. However, as the day progressed, clouds had been piling up, leading to some heavy rain showers and strong winds at sunset. 

By then, I had already returned to the village, where I enjoyed a nice cup of tea in the local coffee shop. I made a few stops between Wakan and the exit of Wadi Mistal, to photograph the developing storm, which was featuring impressive clouds. The day ended with a nice colorful sunset over the Jebel Akhdar. 

During this trek I carried my two Fujifilm X-T5 cameras, with the Viltrox 13mm f/1.4 and Fujifilm 70-300 f/4 – f/5.6 lenses. 

You know when people say that you don’t need to go far from home to make interesting photos? They are right, of course. In my case, the photos I am sharing today were taken in two different days, but at the same time of the day, sunset. I am lucky that my flat has a balcony facing north and the Arabian sea, so I have privileged views of the sunset over Muscat’s shoreline.  

Sunset becomes more interesting when there are clouds, which was the case. I simply grabbed my camera and telephoto zoom lens, and took the photos as the sun was going down. In one the days, the humidity was high, so when I moved from the air-conditioned environment inside the house to the exterior, condensation formed in the lens. I noticed it upon inspecting the first shots in the camera screen; there was this nice ring around the sun, which gave the photos a different character. Hence, I shot a few more like this before cleaning the lens. 

The second session happened a couple of days after we had some rain, so there were still some broody cloud formations over the city. These made an interesting background to the colorful sunset conditions. 

Final note: I started this blog 10 years ago, in September 2014. Time flies, but I have enjoyed sharing my photography here. Hope you have enjoyed it too!