I was born in Lisbon in 1966, and I am a geologist. My main interests as a photographer are Landscapes, Travel, and People. I have been fortunate enough to work in different places and contacted diverse cultures. I am also fortunate to live in a small, but beautiful country, Portugal.
I am writing this short essay as a follow-up to my latest post “Rural summer dawn”. In the latter I wrote about a simple morning walk near my house to photograph the surrounding landscape covered in fog. Fog can add interest to a familar area, which was the case. However, it can also last for a while, which is not good if you want to go to the beach.
Being familiar with the local weather conditions, namely that coastal fog can last for a whole day, I suggested to the family a trip to the interior, to visit two fluvial beaches: Santa Clara a Velha and Pego das Pias. I also wrote about those two places before:
So, after preparing a picnic lunch, we drove to the first place, the 50 year old dam of Santa Clara a Velha, in the river Mira. Sure enough, a few kilometres into the interior, the fog was gone and we were greeted by bright sunshine. The large lake of Santa Clara is a wonderful and refreshing place to spend the day, and that is what we did. I made a few photos, none memorable, but I do like this one where I used the polarizer to enhance the vivid colours of the sky and water.
Santa Clara a Velha dam
In the middle of the afternoon we drove the short distance to Pego das Pias pools, another nice location for a swim. The Pego das Pias is a geomorphological feature carved over thousands of years by the Torgal creek, a tributary of the Mira river. The water has created a narrow gap in the hard rocks, much like a canyon. In the summer, the water level is low, but the evidences of flash floods are conspicuous.
Pego das Pias pools
The location is very scenic, with the quiet pools surrounded by the rocky canyon and many trees that provide plenty of shade. Several large blocks can be seen along the creek, reminders of the force of the water under flash flood conditions. I trekked along the margin upstream, to explore the area a bit more. The views from above are worth the effort, with plenty of green ferns and the famous “pias” – circular smooth depressions carved by the eroding waters.
Pego das Pias pools looking downstreamWater and fernsFernsDry creek bedBoulders
Thanks to the coastal fog, we visited these two wonderful and quiet locations, which I can highly recommend. I look forward to coming to Pego das Pias after some heavy rainfall, it should be interesting.
With the current ongoing pandemic, it is challenging and difficult to make any plans regarding travel or holidays, due to limitations, restrictions, and uncertainties. Thankfully, I often have the chance of taking some days off in my small house in Longueira, in the Alentejo coast. This is a region that I like very much, far away from the crowds; this year even during the Summer it is quieter than usual, due to the lack of foreign tourists.
A couple of weeks ago I spent a weekend there with the family, simply resting and going to the beach, enjoying some quality time. Of course I always take my photo backpack, ready for unplanned opportunities. This essay is about such an opportunity, that presented itself, and that I took advantage of.
One morning I noticed that there was a lot of fog over the area. This was just before sunrise, so I grabbed the camera and lens and went out just to see if I could make some interesting shots. This is a coastal region, and foggy mornings are somewhat common. I went out and walked around a nearby ruined house, which was surrounded by a herd of sheep. I noticed the soft light from the rising Sun, the dew drops on spider webs, and proceeded to make a few photos.
Ruined houseSheep at dawnSheep at dawn
I continued to explore the area, and noticed some nice flowers and spider webs covered in dew. Thanks to the tilting screen of the camera, I was able to frame the subjects easily, from low on the ground.
Web sun riseWebFlower
After a while, the countryside was bathed by the sunlight, and the fog started to lift.
The day begins
I started to walk back home, but made one more stop, to photograph the well preserved windmill. I was attracted by the typical blue that is used in the Alentejo province, contrasting with the white. The red rooster at the top was a nice finishing touch. I also noticed a classic cardinal point indicator atop one of the houses and took a photo of its silhouette.
Typical cardinal point indicatorWindmill
This was no doubt a great start to this day. Later on, I would be taking the family to Santa a Clara a Velha dam and Pego das Pias fluvial pools, but that is a subject for another essay.
Summer in the southwest Alentejo natural park is usually a very busy season, with a large number of people choosing the area for vacation. The main attraction are the many pristine beaches that exist along the coastline and that allow a well deserved rest in a natural and quiet setting. This bit of coastline is probably one of the last “wild” ones in Europe.
I spent a short vacation in the region last week, and noticed that this year the number of visitors had dropped considerably. No doubt the result of the ongoing pandemic crisis. The impact on the local economy will be significant, as in many parts of the World where tourism is a large part of the local income.
For this trip I had no definite plans concerning particular photographic endeavours. Weather permitting, I was hoping to spot comet Neowise after sunset, and go out to photograph the rural fields dotted with the typical hay bales. One of the things I like best about this area is the sea versus land dicotomy that is always present: only a couple of kilometres inland from the coast, the landscape is dominated by rolling hills and rural farmland. If it weren’t for the sea breeze, one might be well within the interior of the country. A true surf ´turf of geographic and climatic nature.
I had previously spotted a few places with abundant hay bales, but I wanted to find a location where they would be complemented by the native cork oak tree, to add a bit more of interest and context to my photos. I found such a place near the island of Pessegueiro, between Milfontes and Porto Covo. After parking the car, I started to walk around looking for potential frames in my mind. I had about 1 hour before sunset, so I was in no rush to start shooting. I normally take my time before setting up the tripod, just familiarizing myself with the surroundings and the light.
Pessegueiro island. There are Roman archaelogical remains (fishing station), plus a ruined late XVI century fort.Endless.
The light had a nice golden quality to it, thanks to the approaching sunset; shadows from the bales were long, complemented by some soft wispy clouds. For some photos I used a polarizer filter to enhance the sky and define the clouds a bit more. I kept moving around and trying different angles, to include the farm houses, the trees, the distant hills and some wind turbines.
Bale and cork oak tree.Farmland.Paired.
Besides using a wide angle lens for greater depth and context, I also used a telephoto lens to isolate the subjects a bit more. Like in the previous photo, and the following ones.
Leaning.Power lines.Rural energy.Sunset.Sunset.
What about the comet? I went to a dark area after dinner, at around 10.30 pm. I knew it would be visible to the northwest, just below the Big Dipper. It was actually easy to find with the naked eye, and it was a great experience seeing it with binoculars. I set up the camera on the tripod and took a few shots, testing the shutter speed to avoid star trailing. There was some atmospheric haze (the day had been very hot) that affected the visibility, as the comet is not very high above the horizon. But overall I am happy with the results, and above all I felt privileged for being able to witness such a spectacular visitor.
Neowise.Neowise.
I was glad I went out for the comet that night, because for the next 2 days the entire coast was covered in fog!
As mentioned in my previous article, today I will write about a unique species of white storks in Portugal’s southwest Alentejo and Vicentina coast. Between Vila Nova de Milfontes and Sagres, this beautiful and still wild coastal region hides another interesting “secret”: it is home to only species of white storks in the world that nest in the coastal cliffs.
Since the 1980’s biologists have been studying and monitoring these colonies of birds. Today, there are over 40 occupied nests. One of the best locations to observe them is in the cliffs near Cabo Sardão. From the car park beside the lighthouse building, it is only a short walk to the edge of the cliffs. There is one nest right in front of the lighhouse´s direction, and another one just a bit towards the south.
Scientists have concluded that most of the couples are still migratory, returning at the end of the Winter. Often the nests are very damaged, and the birds spend a lot of time repairing them. They have to do so in preparation for the birthing of the younger ones in the spring and Summer. Observing these unique birds (plus many other species, of course, like the rare coastal eagles) is a great experience, particularly for the beautiful surrounding seascape.
The best times to observe the storks are during the early morning and late afternoon, when there is more activity relatedto finding food and bringing it to the young ones in the nests. I prefer observing them in the late afternoon, close to sunset, when the light has a magical golden quality. The photos below were taken during a couple of recent visits. A tripod and a telephoto zoom are recommended, for some more close-up compositions and more stability of the gear in windy days.
Sheer dropWhite stork nestWhite stork nestWhite stork nestWhite stork nestWhite stork nest – caring for the young onesWhite stork nest – lift off
For sure I will return to observe these unique birds. Like them, it would be great to be able to fly and soar above these seascapes.
During a recent weekend trip to the southwest Portuguese coast, I had the chance to photograph in the Cabo Sardão area. This is one of my often photographed locations, so it is a challenge to come out with something new, or a different approach. In this occasion, I have planned to tackle two different obiectives. The first one was to photograph the white stork species that lives in the area: this is a unique species of stork, because it nests in the coastal cliffs, and will be the subject for a future essay.
The second objective was to make a few panoramas by shooting a series of photos for later stitching in the computer. There are many sweeping coastal vistas in the area, and sometimes a wide angle lens is not wide enough to encompass the entire scene. For creating panoramas I have been using Panorama Factory, a software that does the job very well.
The first image is a set of 3 photos taken with my Fujinon 16mm f/1.4. The image shows the coast at low tide a short distance away from the Cabo Sardão lighthouse. The hour was close to sunset, so the scene was illuminated with golden light.
Low tide
Next is the classic view of the precipitous cliffs with the lighthouse in the top. This is an assemby of 6 photos, as above taken with the 16mm lens, spanning a large angle of view; larger than what would have been achievable with only a single shot from my wide angle lens.
Cabo Sardão lighthouse
For the third and final image I waited for the full Moon to rise beside the lighthouse. Again, it would have been difficult to get the image with a single shot. This is an assembly of 9 photos taken with the Fujinon 50-140mm f/2.8 telephoto zoom. I like the result because the lighthouse is also lit, as the Sun had just set behind me.
Moon rise
This was an excellent occasion to dust off my panorama abilities, but honestly, these days it is really easy to achieve good results with just a bit of care in the field. For these photos I used a tripod, but this was dictated by the low ISO and concurrent slow shutter speeds. The key concern is to have sufficient overlap between the successive shots, so the software can stitch them correctly.
The ongoing
crisis has taken away simple things that we took for granted, but with the slow
reopening life seems to be gradually returning to “normal”. In the previous
essay I described my first photographic landscape session after the confinement
period. Since then, I was able to go out again for an early morning walk in the
area around Cabo Sardao, in the southwest Portugal coast.
I have been
there so many times over the years I probably lost count, but I always enjoy
returning. The place is beautiful, and it is a privilege to be there,
especially at sunrise and sunset. The best light for landscape photography is
precisely around those times of the day, which in May requires waking up very
early. This can be a challenge, but after being confined for so long, I suppose
I will stop complaining about that! So, I woke up at 5 am, grabbed my camera
and lens plus tripod, and drove the short distance between my house and Cabo
Sardao.
Lighthouse
For this early
morning walk, I simply carried one camera and one lens, plus the tripod. The
lens I had with me was the 35 mm one, which on an APSC camera like mine
provides the angle of view of a classic 50 mm on so called full frame cameras.
Even though I normally photograph in this location with a wide-angle lens, I
can also use the 35 mm lens effectively, challenging myself to get a different
sort of compositions and images.
Into the oceanFirst hint of sunriseCliffsHere comes the sun
The morning
was very quiet and peaceful, with clear skies and no wind. The light from the
lighthouse was still on, as the sunrise was still several minutes away. I made
some photos of the cliffs, the lighthouse, the sea, simply enjoying the place.
I noticed that the storks had already returned to their nests, so I need to go
back with a longer lens; this is a unique species of stork, that lives on the
sea cliffs, and will provide a different type of photographic challenge for me.
In the distance
I stayed there until after sunrise, simply enjoying Nature, and returned home for a well-deserved breakfast.
Under the
current health crisis, many governments have implemented states of emergency,
where confining people to their houses to break the infection chain was
required. In Portugal that state of emergency lasted for 6 weeks, from
mid-March to end of April. Thanks to this, we had success in curtailing the
spreading of the infection and are since 4th of May slowly reopening
some economic activities.
In early
March, just before the lockdown was put in place, I managed to make a short
trip to my house in the southwest coast, in Longueira. I wrote about it in this
article:
After 2
months, and with the lifting of restrictions, I was able to return with my wife
to Longueira for a weekend. The local municipality, Odemira, has only 5
reported cases as I write this. This is not strange, because Odemira is the
largest municipality in area, and the one with the lowest population density.
This is a trait common to the entire province of Alentejo, where social
distancing is already the norm, due to the large distances between villages.
It was good
to go back and travel a bit in the area; all the restaurants and small cafes
are still close (they will reopen 0n May 18th), and there was hardly
anyone on the streets. But at least it
was possible to enjoy this “new freedom” while admiring the views in Milfontes,
Almograve, and Cabo Sardão, for example. After being at home for 2 months, it
was great to be out in one of my favorite places.
Of course,
I took my photo backpack with me, ready to go on a photo walk, should the
opportunity present itself. That was the case one afternoon, where I spent a
few hours near Cabo Sardão. I have photographed this area so many times, it has
become a challenge to obtain different photographs. This afternoon, the weather
was quite unstable, with many showers and the occasional sunshine spell. I
parked the car at the end of a dirt track, near the cliffs, and just admired
the view and the feel of the place. I was thankful for my family being healthy
and felt blessed for being able to be back here, enjoying the salty wind in my
face and the crashing of the waves below. I could not think of a better place
to deconfine.
Wind patterns in sandOver the cliffsSea stacks
After some
minutes of simply “being there”, I started walking along the coastal trail,
paying close attention to potential photographic subjects and elements. We are
in the middle of Spring now, so there are many flowers around, some of them
quite small, others clinging to the rock fissures, all buffeted by the strong
winds. These winds keep shaping the consolidated and rusty colored sand dunes
into small canyons and plateaus, where rounded pebbles have found their resting
place. The surrounding landscape seems to strike a balance between the erosional
forces of the sea, wind and rain, and the resilience of the rock cliffs.
Natural flowResilienceErosion
In my pursuit of finding new angles for familiar subjects, I often ended up lying flat on the ground photographing small flowers, sometimes isolated, other times as foregrounds for the receding cliffs and sea. I have also tried several long exposures, with the idea of conveying this feeling of perpetual change, showing the relationship between the natural elements of water, wind, and rock formations. During the afternoon there were a few showers, but even then, they helped to keep the atmosphere clear and bright. I kept shooting until sunset time, simply enjoying being out in such beautiful surroundings. Hopefully, this health crisis will pass sooner than later, and we will emerge from it stronger and better human beings.
On the edgeSpring in the dunesSpring in the dunesSmall flowerSmall flowerClingingSmall flowerTidal flowDune flowersCabo Sardao lighthouse
Here in Portugal, as in many other countries, we are under a “state of emergency” to combat the pandemic. This means that all non essential personnel was sent home. Some manage to keep working from home, and all schooling is also home based. People can only go out for specific reasons: work, groceries, pharmacy, and local walks. Always keeping a safe distance and avoiding gatherings. So far, after 1 month, the results are encouraging.
Of course, one of the things that I miss is going out and making photos, so I thought about planning a few outings within a reasonable walking distance of my house. I live very close to the beach in Carcavelos, one of the most popular ones on the coast near Lisbon. It is a place I regularly visit to photograph all year round, especially at sunrise. But, as part of the current measures, all beaches and walkways have been closed. My first planned outing was to Carcavelos beach, but this time I would have to choose a different viewpoint; I normally would go to the beach proper at low tide to make photos, which was impossible now. The path that exists along the beach front is also closed.
I then decided to try and scout a few places and viewpoints on the sea side of the road, especially over the rocky outcrops that exist along the coastline. These are quite safe to walk on, and before sunrise, I was sure of not finding anyone else, so all was fine. With this plan in mind, I left the house about 1 hour before sunrise, with my photo backpack and small tripod.
Weather was good, with a few clouds and the Moon still high. My first stop was near a cross that exists by the side of the road, on a dangerous curve of the road, where many accidents used to happen in the past. Today, a traffic radar and lights moderate driver’s speed. I managed to make a photo of the cross with the Moon in the background, under the predawn light. I actually made a few more photos around this location, some long exposures of the sea and waves hitting the shore. Some of the rocks resembled ramparts and castles in my imagination.
Cross and MoonWater and rocksCastle rocks and Moon
After getting some interesting photos in this spot, I walked back towards the beach. I decided to try a few shots and compositions from various places, including the nearby rocks descending into the sea, the fort in the distance, and the interesting sky. It was around 7 am by then, and even this early, normally Carcavelos is already busy with surfers and joggers (I usually jog in the beach). Since the beach is closed, there was an eerie feeling over the area. Below are some of the photos that have resulted from this session. As you can see, the light was changing fast, and I had to work quickly. The colours were transitioning between the blues typical of pre-sunrise, to the warmer pinks and yellows of sunrise.
Slow morningReceeding tide – I like the black and white versionPool reflectionFort
In the coming weeks, my idea is to continue to explore these beaches around my house, from a less conventional perspective. Always abiding to the safety measures, of course. As an hobbyist landscape photographer, I am used to be out of the house when most people are sleeping, so from this angle, things have not changed (much).
Given the current health crisis and the need to stay home, I am taking this opportunity to write a bit about this Fujinon lens which I have been using for a little over a month now. I like to make some macro photos while hiking on trails, should the situation arise. Given it’s focal length, this lens is also suitable for portraits, and some landscape photos with a tighter field of view.
During my time with the lens, I already used it in my 4 day trip to Northeast Portugal, and in a couple of weekends in the Southwest coast (Longueira). As a macro lens, it only goes to 0.5x magnification, but that is why it is small. Other lenses that reach to 1x (or life size) magnification are larger. I do not mind this limitation, as for what I normally photograph (flowers, details, some insects), it is enough. Below are some examples.
Almond blossomsPoppyApproach
I also use the lens for landscapes, when I want to achieve a narrower angle of view, or isolate a particular element of the scenery. I show some examples in the ensuing photos.
Field in fogFog over river Côa valley Fog over river Côa valley
Optically, the lens is superb, with plenty of sharpness even from wide open, nice bokeh, and the typical excellent Fujifilm colours and contrast. Here is one of my first shots with the lens, the obligatory cat shot.
We departed VNFC early in the morning and started the
journey to Freixo de Espada a Cinta (FEC), several km to the North. The road
passes through a beautiful area of Portugal, limited to the East by the Douro
river, which marks the border with Spain. This is a high altitude granitic and
schist plateau, part of the geographic feature known as Iberian Meseta. The
first village is Castelo Melhor, which I have alluded to before. From there,
only a few km away, lies Almendra, considered one of the most beautiful
historical villages in Portugal.
Road map between VNFC and FEC.
Its name comes from the Arabic word for almond, and it is
obvious why; once more, the almond trees are conspicuous in the surrounding
fields and farms. The village has several historic buildings, like the Manor
(“Solar”) that for generations belonged to the Almendra Viscount. It is a
palace from the XVIII century, built in the baroque style. Even though it lies
in ruin today, its grandeur is still very apparent, with imposing granite
facades. A long time before that, in the year 569 AC, the region was under
Visigoth domain. The other important building is the Church of Our Lady of
Angels, which was built in the XVI century; it has an imposing profile, and its
large size and strongholds attest its relevance in these frontier lands.
Almendra – old manor house.Almendra – church.
From Almendra, the road leads to Castelo Rodrigo, even
closer to Spain. The landscape in between is characterized by granitic plateaus
and sparse vegetation, with isolated boulders that have resulted from erosion
by wind and water. Today it is quite warm for February, but it is not difficult
to imagine the cold winter winds whistling thorough the region. Castelo Rodrigo
sits atop a hill, which at this time of the year is surrounded by blooming
almond trees; this makes a very picturesque scenery, so I had to stop to make a
few photos. The entire medieval town is enclosed inside the castle walls, as a
fortification, which was required, given its tribulated history that tells of
many frontier wars with Spain.
Castelo Rodrigo.
However, the history of the place goes well into the past, from pre-historic times to romans and Arabs; finally, in 1297 it was incorporated in Portugal. It is well worthwhile to spend some time walking along the narrow streets, feeling the history of the place. Also spend some time tasting the delicacies in the shops, particularly the almonds and almond liqueur. Inside the castle, note the “defamed upside down coat of arms”, a punishment by the King of Portugal imposed on the local nobility, who sided at the time with the opposing Spanish party in the war.
Castelo Rodrigo – defamed coat of arms.
The next leg of our trip would take us to Barca de Alva, one
of the entry points of the International Douro Natural Park. Before getting
there, be sure to stop in the roman villa of Almofala, with its well-preserved
tower. Given that it was lunch time, we had a picnic in a small resting area by
the side of the road, under the shade of a willow tree, and close to a small
creek. I even made a few long exposures of the running water, just for fun.
Almofala roman tower.
Approaching Barca de Alva, it is interesting to notice that
the topography starts to change; in fact, the plateau area we had been crossing
since morning, transitions into a rougher terrain, that descends precipitously
towards the Douro valley. This is an important location, as it marks the end of
the 200 km long train route that starts in Porto in the coast and goes along
the Douro river upstream. Unfortunately, part of the route has been deactivated
and is in disuse. It also marks the point up to which the Douro is navigable.
The Mediterranean microclimate of the region, and how it affects the Douro
valley, becomes apparent here: there are many fields cultivated with vineyards,
almonds, orange and olive trees. This is where the region of Port wine truly
begins.
Barca de Alva – a nice viewpoint before the road descends into the Douro valley. This is a 13 shot panorama.Barca de Alva – another panorama.
The rest of our trip will follow the road along the border
with Spain, and it is impossible not to stop along the way to admire the
landscape from several viewpoints. The most famous one is located just before
arriving at FEC and is called Penedo Durão. This is a rocky spur that juts out
over the Douro valley, at an altitude of around 700m. From this vantage point,
and in the right season, many birds that are typical of this Natural Park can
be observed: griffin, Egyptian vulture, peregrine falcon, amongst others. It is
a great place to stop and appreciate the surrounding nature.
View from the road over the Douro river. Border with Spain.View over the Douro river from Penedo Durão.
By the time we arrive at FEC, the sun is going down behind
the mountains. This is another town rich in history, and whose foundation is
lost in the mist of time. The origin of its name “Freixo” (Ash tree) and
“Espada Cinta” (sword at waist) is not clear, and there are several legends.
One story says that a goth nobleman whose name was “Espadacinta” took a nap
under a Freixo after battling the Arabs in the Douro river. Another tells how
king D. Dinis, when passing through this land, lied down to rest under the
shade of a Freixo tree, but not before placing his mighty sword against it. While
sleeping, the tree’s spirit guided the king to establish wise guidelines for
the future. Regardless of the story, the town is full of interesting places to
visit.
Freixo de Espada a Cinta – main square with church and castle.Freixo de Espada a Cinta – onion basket.
From FEC to the fluvial beach of Congida is a quick and
short drive. This is a great place to spend the night, in peaceful tranquillity
by the river Douro. The light of the setting sun reaches the banks of the
river, bathing them in golden hues. I make haste with my tripod and camera to
take a few shots of the surrounding scenery. At night, I went out to make a
star trail session. As the river runs North to South, pointing the camera to
the North will ensure a nice star trail rotating around Polaris. Fujifilm cameras
make this extremely easy to set up, with their built in intervalometer. I
programme the camera to shoot 100 frames of 30 seconds each, this will give me
a total of 50 minutes of movement.
Congida fluvial beach. Panorama of 16 shots of the Douro river.Star trail.Night photo.
The following morning, I was out of the room before sunrise; the weather had turned cloudy, but that was good, as it added some more interest in the sky area for the photos. I walked around the beach, trying out different foregrounds such as boats and willow trees. I also opted for some long exposures, between a few seconds and 2 minutes; this has resulted in some interesting movement effects in the clouds. In the end, I decided to convert some of the photos to black and white, for added visual drama.
Congida before dawn.Congida before dawn.Congida before dawn.
It was with a sad feeling that we left the area and returned home, after a few very fulfilling days in a beautiful part of the country. But we left with our hearts and minds richer, after experiencing all the culture, history, and landscape of the region.
Between VNFC and Peso da Régua. Route 222 follows the Unesco World Heritage site, for the Douro wine country landscape.Douro valley near Peso da Régua.