PauloBizarroPHOTOBLOG – Page 7 – Some of my photography

A storm is coming

After a very dry winter, finally we are having some rain in Portugal in April. Still not enough to mitigate the drought, but rain nevertheless. During one of my recent walks in the Alentejo coast, between Cabo Sardão and Zambujeira-do-Mar, I ended up photographing some seascapes during the sunset. The afternoon had been very windy, with heavy clouds accumulating in the distance. As the day was ending, the light kept changing very quickly, and the first showers could be seen in the distance.

I mounted my camera on the tripod, and made several photos using the lenses I had with me: the older and trusty Fujinon 14mm wide-angle and the more recent Fujinon 70-300mm zoom. The former was used to frame the coastal cliffs against the sea and dramatic sky, whereas the latter was used to photograph the distant ominous clouds near the horizon.

The clouds were covering the sun, but as sunset approached, a thin sliver of clear sky appeared, illuminated by warm colors. This made a very nice contrast with the darker bands of sea and sky that were framing it.

Watching this show was a wonderful experience, and I was glad I had decided to visit the area; bad weather often makes for good light and interesting photos. My final frame was of the Cabo Sardão lighthouse as its light was turned on.

The white storks are back to the Southwest

The southwest coast of Portugal is home to a unique species of storks, which are one of the icons of the region. I first wrote about them almost two years ago, in a small essay that can be found in the link below.

The white storks of the Vicentina coast

The arrival of Spring brings with it the return of these birds to their nests set atop the numerous sea stacks along the coastal cliffs. One of the best areas to observe this species is the stretch of littoral between the villages of Cavaleiro and Zambujeira-do-Mar. I walked this trail a couple of weeks ago, and was able to photograph the white storks in their nests. I used the Fujifilm X-T3 camera and Fujinon 70-300mm zoom.

Two years ago the maximum focal length I had was 200mm, which was a bit limited. So, this time I wanted a little more reach, and the 70-300mm zoom (which was released in the interim) proved to be quite adequate. Of course, the Fujifilm 100-400mm zoom would have been even better, at the cost of extra weight and bulk, not to mention expense. I found the 70-300mm lens to be easy to handhold, and the image stabilization was also very useful. I was in the field for a few hours in the late afternoon, shooting until sunset in various places.

The wind was very strong, which required extra care when approaching the edge of the cliffs. The strong wind also demanded that, when using 300mm, I often had to lie on the ground to improve stability and avoid camera shake, which was a higher risk when the lens barrel was fully extended.

I also made several seascape photos of the area, which is beautiful in itself. In the set below, there are several frames taken with the Fujifilm 14mm f/2.8 lens, a high quality wide – angle lens that I have owned for several years. The geology along the cliffs makes for spectacular shapes and rock textures.

Route 15 – another walk in the Rota Vicentina near Odeceixe

This walk starts in the village of Odeceixe, which is located in the southwest coast of Portugal, in the limit between the provinces of Alentejo and Algarve. It is a companion walk to route 14, which I have described before (see link below). That one was a circular trail that crossed the coastal plateau, reaching the coast and returning to the village along the river Seixe.

From Odeceixe to the sea

Route number 15 also starts in Odeceixe, but heads to the interior, along hilly terrain, approaching the slopes of the Algarve mountains. This is where the source of the river Seixe is located; in fact, a good part of the trail follows the river valley, as indicated in the map below. The total distance is around 16 km.

Location map for route 15 of the Rota Vicentina.

Leaving Odeceixe behind, the trail heads to the South, crossing cultivated land and a few farms. In the beginning of March, there are some fields of flowers announcing the coming Spring.

It is an easy walk along the flat plateau, with some pine tree forests along the way. After a few kilometers, the trail starts to descend towards the river Seixe, which makes its way along a narrow valley. This is a wonderful part of the trail, walking close to the running water, and amidst small forests of ash and elm trees. Here and there, frogs jump into the pools.

The rest of the walk continues to follow the course of the river, sometimes with a short diversion to the top of the nearby hills. The importance of this small river is clear, especially in the surrounding flat terrain, which is cultivated with seasonal crops and fruit orchards. The water also permits the existence of pasture for grazing animals.

Approaching Odeceixe, the valley becomes wider, and there are more farms along the way. The land is covered in places by yellow rapeseed flowers, and I spend some time making a few photos. During this walk, I only carried the Fujifilm X-Pro3 camera and my trusty 35mm f/1.4 lens, a combination that is flexible enough to cover the different subjects I encountered along the way.

Soon I am back at the starting point, and I rest for a while in a café, where it is possible to taste the local delicacies, which are made with fig, almond, honey and pumpkin. As I mentioned in the beginning, this trail route is an excellent complement to the other path that goes to the coast. Together, they provide a wonderful experience of the region around Odeceixe, which is one of the icons of the Costa Vicentina.

Vicentina Coast – a treasure to experience

The coastal region between Odeceixe and São Vicente is part of the Southwest Alentejo and Vicentina Coast Natural Park, and throughout the years I have written many times about the region. Today I would like to make a visual summary of the main points of interest along this coastline. This comes as a result of the several Rota Vicentina trails that I have been walking in the last few years.

The main reference points along this coastal region are often associated with a few villages and/or nearby beaches. From North to South, we will find: Odeceixe, Aljezur (Amoreira, Arrifana and Monte Clérigo beaches), Bordeira (Carrapateira, Amado, and Murração beaches), Vila do Bispo (Cordoama and Castelejo beaches), and finally Sagres/Cabo São Vicente (Telheiro and Ponta Ruiva beaches). In all of these it is possible to admire wonderful seascapes, which are dominated by tall cliffs that drop precipitously into the azure ocean.

These cliffs are formed by heavily compressed, folded and faulted Paleozoic rock formations with around 300 million years of age. Quite often, it is this geologic complexity that shapes the topography of the coastline. Given the nearby mountains, like Monchique, several small rivers and brooks make their way to the coast, where their estuaries lead to the formation of several of the beaches mentioned above (like in Amoreira, Bordeira, and Odeceixe). What follows is a compilation of photos from these beaches, most of them taken off-season, when the silence and tranquility prevail.

Panorama of Odeceixe beach, shaped by water and wind.

Panorama of the river Seixe looking towards the sea.

Sunset time in Arrifana, where its golden sands are protected by a cove.

View of Cordoama and Castelejo beaches from Torre da Aspa, the highest point in the Algarve coast.

Looking North, with the red rocks of Ponta Ruiva in the middle distance.

São Vicente lighthouse at the end of the day.

On the trail in route 7 of Rota Vicentina, near Odemira

This circular route is one of my favorites in the Rota Vicentina, and I have written about it several times before (see link below as an example).

Along the Nossa Senhora das Neves trail, Odemira

A few days ago I spent some time in the region, and I took the opportunity to walk this trail again. Revisiting familiar places is always a challenge when it comes fresh ideas for photos, but I have tried to do so. I decided this time to walk the route in the afternoon, as my previous walks had been in the morning. As such, I was hoping to benefit from some late afternoon light over the local rural landscape. One other difference was that I am currently testing a new lens, the Fujinon 70-300mm. This lens allowed me to isolate some elements in the landscape, such as old houses and the large cork oak trees that are typical of the area. With me, I also had the 14mm wide-angle lens, which was useful to frame the large trees and the hilly landscape.

The weather was nice, already with a touch of Spring in the air. Rain has been very scarce this Winter, but some recent rainfall revitalized the crops that local farmers had cultivated. This turned the hilly landscape into patches of browns and greens. For me, one of the highlights of this trail are the very large cork oak trees that dominate the landscape. Also the view from the Nossa Senhora das Neves chapel, at the top of the hill, is always a must.

The first half of the walk crosses rural farmlands, with crops of wheat, large cork oak trees, and some abandoned old farm houses. Some plants are in bloom, adding color to the landscape. The sense of tranquility and isolation is strong.

Monte da Estrada village, at the beginning of the trail.

Heather in bloom. Source of delicious honey.

After a few kilometers, the Nossa Senhora das Neves chapel, located in the top of a high hill, becomes visible from the valley below. Soon, the path starts to climb steeply, but the view from the top is well worth the effort. Next to a curve, a farmer drives by in a tractor. It was the only person I have crossed with during my walk.

Nossa Senhora das Neves belvedere. A good place to rest and enjoy the view.

Hilly landscape, with the chapel in the distance.

I put the 70-300mm lens to good use, zooming in into some distant elements. It is also good for some close-ups o flowers along the way.

The rest of the walk continues to cross farmland, and I photograph a few more houses and interesting trees along the way. The sunset light imparts a different character to the landscape, precisely what I had hoped for.

Just before arriving back at Monte da Estrada, there is a nice cultivated area with scattered cork oak trees, and I spent some time photographing it. I try different compositions, such as isolating the trees in the landscape, or moving up close to better show the characteristic rough and twisted tree trunks.

I had walked this trail last October, when the fields were all brown and dry. A few months later, it was nice to go back and see the change, with the landscape covered in large part by the green of the cultivated fields. I am sure I will go back to this route in the future, every time it offers something different.

Between Telheiro and Ponta Ruiva in the Vicentina Coast

In the previous post, I wrote about the wonderful route 23 of Rota Vicentina, that connects the beaches of Amado and Murração. Following the road to the South, near Vila do Bispo, there are many other interesting places to visit and photograph, including Castelejo and Cordoama ( see post linked below).

In the heart of the Vicentina coast

The coastal region between Vila do Bispo and Sagres, to the South of Castelejo beach, continues to be characterized by the same tall cliffs, strong winds and heavy seas. Here and there, small sandy coves hide protected beaches, only accessible by rough roads or by foot. I wanted to visit the area between the beaches of Telheiro and Ponta Ruiva, which are located within a stone’s throw of Cape São Vicente. A general map is provided below for reference.

Location map for the area between Telheiro and Ponta Ruiva beaches.
SV – Cape São Vicente/T – Telheiro beach/PR – Ponta Ruiva beach.

This short stretch of coastline, around 3 km long, holds one of the most famous geomonuments in Portugal. In the Telheiro beach, it is possible to admire a fantastic angular unconformity between the 320 million year old Carboniferous schists and greywackes, and the 200 million year old Triassic red sandstones. The “missing” 120 million years are represented by the unconformity, as the result of the uplift and erosion of an old mountain chain, followed by the deposition of the continental red beds.

I had around 2 hours before the sunset, so I took my time to explore the area, trying to find some good viewpoints over the rock formations and the coastline. The wind was strong, and the cliffs are about 100 m high, so I had to be careful when approaching their edges. I made a lot of photos, as the views to the North and South were really wonderful.

After making a few photos of the unconformity, I walked to Ponta Ruiva beach. The name (Red Point) comes from a peculiar outcrop of red rock, which provides a nice contrast with the surrounding formations. Along the way, there are many interesting view points from where to photograph. With the approaching sunset, the quality of the light was improving, bathing the area with golden hues.

Geological coastline with the unconformity.

At the end of the day, after returning to Telheiro, I also had the chance to photograph the lighthouse of São Vicente in the distance. Together with the nearby Sagres promontory, this region has a special meaning in Portuguese history and the Age of the Discoveries.

It was a very nice way to finish the day, admiring the incessant waves crashing against this majestic coastline. In terms of photo gear, I used mostly the Fuji 14mm wide-angle and the Fuji 70-300mm telephoto lenses. They provide a lot of flexibility, covering both the wide vistas and the close-ups of the distant details.

Along route 23 of Rota Vicentina, near Amado beach

This walking trail connects the beaches of Amado and Murração in the Vicentina coast of southwest Portugal, just south of Carrapateira beach. It is a short circular route, but it crosses some of the most beautiful and characteristic zones of this region, including steep terrain, deeply cut valleys, and wild beaches. A location map is shown below.

Location map for route 23 of Rota Vicentina (in blue).

After parking the car in Amado, the trail crosses the beach in a southward direction. This is a very popular beach with surfers, who frequent it all year round. The beach is large, and has some very colorful red and yellow rocks on its northern cliffs. As a side note, besides the natural beauty of the scenery, there are many interesting geological features to observe along this walk.

The day was sunny, but with strong winds that are typical of this coast. Leaving Amado behind, the trail starts to climb into the surrounding hills. These have a rounded topography and are covered by short vegetation that clings to the rocky soil. Even though it is wintertime, rainfall has been very scarce, so everything looks a bit dry. In fact, this has been one of the driest winters in Portugal since there are records.

After a few kilometers, the path meanders up and down through steep terrain, crossing a couple of deeply cut valleys and ravines. Even though we are very close to the sea, the sound of the waves does not carry inland. Before arriving at Murração beach, there is a steep ascent up a narrow footpath, at the end of which lies an abandoned house.

From here it is an easy walk down a rural road to the beach, but I recommend getting off the track for a while, and make your way to the top of the cliff that overlooks Murração. The view over the coast is wonderful, including Murração, Amado, and Carrapateira.

As I mentioned before, there are many interesting geological features in the area, especially in Murração. If you can, spend some time in the beach looking at these dark Carboniferous rock formations, that have been folded and compressed about 300 million years ago. Also noteworthy are the abundant volcanic dykes that have intruded these host rocks, and provided an interesting color contrast along the cliffs.

This beach is also an excellent spot for a picnic lunch. A few people were also around, even risking a dive in the cold and rough sea. As I was lying down resting for a while, the Sun started to illuminate the vertical cliffs, adding a nice effect of hazy light and local mist.

From here on, it is an easy walk back to Amado, with more opportunities for photos along the way. The sea was rough with some nice waves, so I spend some time trying to catch some in camera. The view looking southward is also very scenic, with the tall black cliffs adding a lot of mystery.

After a while, I was back at Amado beach, where I made a few more photos. On the southern part of the beach there are some interesting sand dunes. You do need to pay attention to the tide if you want to venture closer to the cliffs and tidal pools.

This is another wonderful trail walk that crosses beautiful hilly and coastal regions, that are so typical of the Vicentina coast. It is a short distance, but there are plenty of interesting things to see and photograph. Speaking of photography, for this walk I carried more than my usual Fujifilm kit: 3 cameras and 3 lenses, from wide-angle (14mm) and standard (35mm) to a telephoto zoom (70-300mm). This was because I knew I would use them all, given the variety of subjects. Still, all the gear fitted nicely in the bottom compartment of my backpack, leaving the top compartment for food and drinks.

The small fishing harbor of Entrada da Barca, Alentejo coast.

Along the southwest coast of Alentejo, in Portugal, there are several small fishing harbors that are still used today by local fishermen. The livelihood of this region is still based on two main activities: farming and fishing. These harbors provide shelter for the small boats that venture in the coastal areas when the weather conditions permit. On a recent sunny afternoon I visited the Entrada da Barca harbor, which is located close to the town of Zambujeira do Mar.

This is a very picturesque location, with nice views from the top of the cliffs. After making a few photos, I walked all the way down to the water, exploring the little bay. There were a few boats in the water, plus other ones on the concrete landing. I had with me a new lens, the Fujinon 70-300mm f/4 – f/5.6 zoom, which I wanted to try out. My preference when photographing in the area is for wide – angle and standard lenses, but a telephoto zoom is also very useful to photograph details and subjects that are far away. After this initial tryout, my conclusion is that the lens is very good and will be a valuable addition to my kit.

General overview of the fishing harbor of Entrada da Barca.

I walked along the concrete pier that was built to protect the harbor from the sea. Once you reach the end of it, you can appreciate the transition between the sheltered area and the open water. I admire the fishermen that regularly go out into the ocean in these tiny boats.

After a while I left the harbor and walked along the coastal path, which climbs the northern face of the small bay. This path belongs to the Rota Vicentina trail section that connects the towns of Zambujeira do Mar and Almograve, about 20 km away. The weather was clear and sunset time was approaching, bathing the coastal cliffs with a golden light. It is interesting to see the succession of small coves formed by the erosion of the rocks.

Looking south towards Zambujeira do Mar.

Walking along the trail, I chose a few spots that provided views over the coast, set up the tripod, and took a few more photos. The silence was only disturbed by the seagulls and the waves below. I use the telephoto zoom to photograph the distant bird nests, and also some of the cliffs, to highlight the layered nature of the rocks.

At the end of the day, enjoying the sunset, I was happy with this small walk in the area, where there are so many interesting aspects to explore. If you want, you can even stay longer and have a nice dinner in the typical restaurants near the harbor, where you can taste the fresh fish that was probably captured in the waters below.

In the heart of the Vicentina coast

The Vicentina coast in southwest Portugal is considered one of the remaining “wild coasts” in Europe. Together with the Alentejo coast to the north, it is part of a Natural Park. I wrote about it before, for example in this previous post from April 2021:

The Vicentina coast in Spring

This coastal region is famous, amongst other things, for its beaches (many of them only accessible by footpaths or 4WD vehicles), the majestic tall cliffs dropping into the ocean, and the many species of birds. It is also very popular with surfers, who visit the area all year round. There are several walking paths that belong to the Rota Vicentina network, which are one of the best ways to explore the region. I have recently walked along route 24, a circular trail path the connects the town of Vila do Bispo to the coast and back. Along the way, it is possible to visit some of the most beautiful beaches in the area, like Barriga, Cordoama, and Castelejo. The distance is 15.5 km, which takes around 5 hours to walk at a normal pace.

Map showing trail number 24 of the Rota Vicentina (in orange color).

I normally do not carry much photo gear in these walks, but this time it was different. I knew I was going to need a wide-angle lens, besides my normal standard lens. I also wanted a tripod, for some late afternoon shots. So I packed my Fujinon 14mm and 35mm lenses, plus the Fujifilm X-PRO3 and X-T30 cameras. Still, the whole gear was still pretty light and fitted in my trekking backpack nicely.

The landscape in this coastal area is characterized by a large plateau at around 120 m above sea level. However, this flat terrain is a bit misleading, because there are several creeks that have, through time, cut deep and narrow valleys in the topography. The first few kilometres of the trail cross this plateau, along rural countryside, and where the vegetation is short. The winds are strong here, so the trees do not grow very tall. Pine trees and shrubs are common.

The countryside, and the sea in the distance.

After a while, the path turns westwards, towards the sea, before arriving at Barriga beach. This part of the walk is wonderful, as the coastal plateau abruptly descends to the beach. The vertical cliffs are made of black Paleozoic rocks, in strong contrast with the light colored sand and the deep blue of the ocean water.

When the tide is low, it is possible to walk from Barriga to Cordoama, as the beaches are connected. But today I wanted to keep to the trail, so after visiting Barriga, I turned back inland. This was the first steep ascent in the walk, going back to the top of the plateau, but the view is wonderful. One of the highlights of this route is when the path reaches the coast again, affording a fantastic view of Cordoama and Castelejo beaches to the south, and the Carrapateira headland to the north.

Trail marker at the top of the Cordoama cliff.

View of Cordoama beach from the top of the cliff.

The trail reaches the coast at Cordoama.

The beach is a good place to rest and have a picnic lunch. A few surfers are around, trying the waves. This is a long stretch of connected beaches, which in the past was only accessible by dirt roads. Today, there are narrow tarmac roads that start in Vila do Bispo and come to Cordoama and Castelejo.

From here, the trail goes up again to the top of the cliff, in a steep ascent. There are some rough parts with loose rocks, so be careful. Once in the top, you will be in the Cordoama viewpoint, where there is a small car park. My plan was to complete the trail and come back at sunset for a few more photos. From this point onwards, the walk is easy, leaving the tarmac road a few hundred meters away, to cross the Castelejo pine forest. This part of the trail is also nice, because this forest is a preserved area, with relevant local fauna and flora species.

The town of Vila do Bispo at the end of the route.

Returning to Vila do Bispo, I rested a few minutes in the nice café near the market. If you are hungry I can recommend a local delicious pie, made with three regional ingredients: carob, figs, and almonds. After this resting stop, I drove to another local landmark, Torre da Aspa, the highest place of the Algarve coast, at 140 m above sea level. You need to drive along a dirt road, which may not be in a very good condition, so after a while I parked and decided to walk. It is an easy walk, so soon I was again looking at the ocean below. There is also a curious abandoned house, which belonged to the coastal police a few years ago. I explored the area for some time, being careful when approaching the edge of the cliffs. In several places, there is a sheer vertical drop into the sea.

From this location, if you look south, you will see the Sagres headland, with the lighthouse of Cabo São Vicente, and the Sagres fort. From here, facing the endless ocean, Henry the Navigator coordinated the beginning of the Age of Discoveries many centuries ago. Looking north, I saw below the better part of the iconic Vicentina coast. It is a wonderful place to spend some time enjoying the view, and to use your binoculars if you have them. You will even be able to see the Arrifana beach about 30 km to the north. It was funny to realize that I was above the cliffs that I had crossed earlier, during the trail. In fact, it was possible to see the entire area that I had walked earlier.

View of Cordoama beach from Torre da Aspa, the highest point in the Algarve coast.

I still wanted to catch the sunset at the Cordoama viewpoint, so I returned to the car and drove back there. During the last couple of hours, a few clouds had appeared, which added interest to the sky in the photos. At the end of the day, I was happy to have visited this region again, and for sure I will be back to walk a few more trail routes.

Walking around Arrifana beach

The Arrifana beach, located in the municipality of Aljezur in Portugal’s southwest coast, is one of my favorite places to visit and photograph. Over the years, I have returned many times, during all seasons. The beach, located in a large bay surrounded by tall dark cliffs, is really beautiful. As many other beaches along this coast, it is popular with surfers all year round, thanks to its waves.

During a recent visit, I wanted to photograph the beach from the top of its southern cliff, which can only be reached via some narrow dirt trails that diverge from the main Rota Vicentina route that passes nearby, connecting the towns of Aljezur and Vila do Bispo. After leaving this route, I explored the area in the top of the cliffs overlooking the ocean, trying to find some nice view points. The weather was good, with blue sky and some clouds.

After walking up a steep hill, I was rewarded with wonderful views not only towards Arrifana to the north, but also towards the south. This costal region is part of a Natural Park, with the tall rocky cliffs dropping vertically into the ocean below. There are some good locations to enjoy the view and make a few photos, but some care is required under windy conditions.

It is simply magical to admire Nature’s work, and imagine the tectonic forces that have squeezed these Paleozoic rocks into such complex folded domains. Today, the erosive forces of the sea, the wind, and the rain, keep pounding these rocks.

Endless view. There are several beaches along the coast (like Vale Figueira and Carrapateira), some only accessible by dirt road.

As the sunset was approaching fast, I walked back towards the look out point over Arrifana. I had with me two lenses, one wide angle and one standard, and I used both. Facing north, the wind was stronger, so I had to make sure my tripod was firmly set. It is possible to walk along the top of the cliff, exploring several ledges that offer good view points to the north over the beach.

This was an excellent afternoon walk in this beautiful area, at the heart of the Vicentina coast.