PauloBizarroPHOTOBLOG – Page 5 – Some of my photography

A visit to Serra da Estrela – day 3

The plan for the third day of our trip was to walk the trail between Lagoa Comprida and Covão dos Conchos, in the heart of the mountain. After breakfast, we drove to the town of Seia, from where it is easy to reach the starting point, via the village of Sabugueiro. The weather was overcast, with a heavy cloud cover. Our concerns were confirmed once we reached Sabugueiro, which was enveloped in fog. Given that the trail route is at an altitude in excess of 1500 m , the presence of fog was bad news.

View of Sabugueiro, the highest village in Portugal.

Still we persisted and continued driving up the road. When we arrived at the Lagoa Comprida, a lake created by a dam, the visibility was near zero. The wind was strong and freezing, and in such conditions, we decided not to walk this trail. Even though the path was easy and we had the GPS track, there was no point in doing it. I walked around for a while and took a few photos of the landscape in the fog.

We drove back to Seia and quickly devised an alternative plan for the day. Fortunately there is no lack of interesting places to visit, given the abundance of historical villages in the region. In Seia itself, we visited the Bread Museum, which tells the story of bread and its importance since pre-historic times. In the area assigned to poetry and literature about bread, there is a corner dedicated to Fernando Pessoa, the great Portuguese poet of the 20th century. There is even a rare first edition of his book “Mensagem”, the only one that was published while he was still alive. The book is displayed on top of his writing desk, together with a coffee cup from Brasileira, his favorite coffee house in Lisbon. It was interesting to find these rare pieces in a museum outside of a large city.

From Seia, we decided to visit a few other historical villages, such as Castelo de Linhares da Beira and Celorico da Beira. Near Celorico, another interesting place is the pre-historic necropolis of São Gens.

Road map between Castelo de Linhares da Beira and Celorico da Beira.

The weather continued to be cold and dark, which actually suited the character of the landscape and the constant presence of granite. Arriving in Castelo de Linhares da Beira, the silhouette of its castle dominated the surroundings.

As with all villages in the region, the history of Linhares is lost in the mists of time. The first settlement in the top of the hill is dated from around 850 b.C., before the Roman occupation of the territory. Then came periods of occupation by the Visigoths and Arabs, before the Christian reconquer. In 1169 a.C. King Afonso Henriques grants the village its first charter. We have a quick picnic lunch in the nearby woods, and then proceed to walk along the narrow streets, where the wind blows and the rain starts to fall.

Pillory in Linhares. This was the sign that the town had been given its charter, or “foral”.

View of Linhares from the castle ramparts, with the Serra da Estrela in the distance.

This village, as many others, only comes to life during the summer, when the emigrants return to spend their vacations. For now, it seems like a ghost town, but the weather is also not inviting to go out. Linhares is also famous for hosting paragliding events, which makes sense, given its location in altitude and favorable wind conditions.

From Linhares to Celorico da Beira is a short drive. Celorico is considered the capital of the Serra cheese, a regional product that is quite famous. Therefore, a visit to the “Solar do Queijo”, in the main square near the castle, is mandatory. There, you can learn about how this delicacy is made, and of course buy it in the local shop. As with Linhares, the history of Celorico also starts in pre-historic times, with successive occupations by Romans, Visigoths, Arabs, and Christians. It is worth visiting the castle and admire the views over the Mondego river valley and the succession of mountain ranges towards Spain. With the advance of the afternoon, finally a little bit of sunshine starts to come through.

View of Celorico from the castle, with the Serra da Estrela in the horizon.

Near Celorico there is a very interesting place to visit, which is the necropolis of São Gens. Located in the granitic plain, this is a location where evidences of human settlements have remained until the present day. These include 7000 years neolithic tombs, and remnants of Roman and medieval houses. These are close to a geological monument that consists of a granite block in precarious equilibrium on top of another one. The combined effect of meteoric agents has resulted in the erosion of the bottom of the granite block, creating this particular peduncular shape. I walk around taking some photos, having to wait here and there for the sun to break through the clouds. When that happens, the light acquires a dramatic character, illuminating my subjects against a dark menacing sky. It is easy to imagine our ancestors living in this area, perhaps also admiring and wondering about how this granite shape was originated.

Medieval bridge over the Mondego river, near Celorico.

Granite block geosite watching over neolithic tombs.

With the end of the day approaching, we had no regrets about cancelling the trail from our original plan; with a region so rich with cultural and historical routes, it is easy to find interesting places to visit and experience.

A visit to Serra da Estrela – day 2

The second day of this trip to Serra da Estrela was dedicated to do the walk in the Mondego river walkways (Passadiços do Mondego). I woke up before sunrise to explore a little bit around the place where we were staying, a local farm in the village of Cavadoude, near Guarda. The morning was cold and breezy, with the ground covered in frost.

Farm where we stayed in Cavadoude. These old granite houses are full of character.

The owner of the farm raises Lusitanian horses.

The unique Serra da Estrela, a race of shepherd dogs.

The Mondego river starts its journey in the heart of Serra da Estrela and reaches the Atlantic in the city of Figueira da Foz. This walkway is a 12 km trail that was inaugurated in November 2022; around half of its length is made of wood walkways (the so-called passadiços), thus making it possible to reach thus far completely isolated and wild areas of the upper Mondego. The map below shows the route.

Map showing the route of the Mondego Walkways.

The path always follows the river, which in this area runs along a narrow and steep valley. The topography is rugged, with a marked contrast between the lush vegetation near the water and the barren and rocky granitic slopes. We decided to start the walk in the northern entrance, at the Caldeirão dam. You can also start at the southern entrance near the village of Videmonte; however, if you do so you will face a very steep and strenuous climb in the end at Caldeirão.

The weather was a bit like in the previous day, overcast with clouds and a strong wind in the more exposed parts of the mountain. In the afternoon the sky cleared up somewhat. As usual, I had my photo kit (2 cameras and 2 lenses plus tripod) in my daily backpack. I recommend a wide angle lens for the mountain views, plus a normal lens for the other subjects along the way. A pair of binoculars is also a good idea. Near the beginning of the route, there are a few spots where nice vistas of the valley can be seen; there is also a small detour that reaches the Caldeirão waterfall, a wonderful place where the water falls from a height of 50 m, cutting through pink granite.

View over part of the Mondego valley, with the trail route in the distance. Only a few days before, a fire affected the slopes above one of the villages.

After a few km we reach the village of Misarela, famous for its medieval bridge. I think that Spring is a great time to do this walk, because the rivers and brooks have plenty of water, after the Winter rains.

As I have mentioned, the trail follows along the course of the river, so the sound of running water is always present, together with the rich singing of the various birds in the trees. There are plenty of interesting things to see as we walk along the path, including the remains of the once very important wool factories. You will see several signposts indicating them near the river, where the water’s energy was used to sustain the manufacture of wool. They are a testament to human ingenuity and persistence from more than 100 years ago, where living conditions in these isolated mountain reaches must have been tough.

In general, the trail route is a mix of wood walkways and forest paths, and is easy going. There are hardly any other people on the trail, so the tranquility of the mountain prevails. In the more sheltered valley sections the temperature goes up, but sometimes we turn a corner and we can feel the strong and cold wind. It is a good idea to dress in layers and adjust accordingly. In general, when walking in this direction (towards Videmonte), we gain altitude. As the latter increases, the vegetation becomes scarcer, with the trees limited to the vicinity of the river. In the slopes, heather and bush grows among the granite, buffeted by the constant wind. The rocks are often twisted and convoluted, as a result of the action of the tectonic forces that, for millions of years, have shaped these mountains. It is difficult not to stop and take another photo, because the landscape is simply beautiful.

The walkway reaches places where otherwise the access would be extremely difficult.

The final stretch of the walk, towards the village of Videmonte, is a long but not too hard climb. For those with a geological inclination, it is well worth spending some time admiring the so-called Videmonte metasediments. These are Paleozoic metamorphic rocks that started their history as sediments in the ocean floor, but were later subjected to extreme pressures and temperatures during a continental collision. Today, we can admire the tightly folded layers of hard rock, that are in places cut by creeks, like in the Moinhos waterfalls.

Twists and turns of the Videmonte metasediments.

Moinhos waterfalls. There are a few watermills nearby, that were once part of the wool industry.

The trail ends in the car park, and from there you can catch a taxi to the starting point. Normally, there are a few taxis waiting for customers, if not, it is easy enough to call one. My impression at the end of the day was one of gratitude, for being able to visit such a wonderful region in the Serra, where wild beauty still prevails.

A visit to Serra da Estrela – day 1

The Serra da Estrela is a mountain range located in the central part of Portugal, where the highest point of the continental mainland can be found, with an altitude of 1993 m. This mountain chain is part of the largest Portuguese Natural Park, created in 1976. This region is characterized by the presence of granitic mountains, which hold a rich fauna and flora; it is also home of some of the oldest villages of Portugal, with a history that goes back to the country’s foundation, almost 1000 years ago.

Map with the location of the Serra da Estrela (red line).

Several days are required to experience this region fully, but I only managed to visit during 4 days. Still, my wife and I had great fun, and Spring is one of the best times to visit. The rivers and brooks carry plenty of water after the Winter, days are longer, and the fields are green. Each day was dedicated to a particular area and/or activity, thus I will assign one article per day, as follows:

Day 1 – driving from home to the accommodation, with a visit to the city of Guarda;

Day 2 – trekking the Mondego River Walkways, a recent route that opened in November 2022;

Day 3 – the original plan was to walk between Lagoa Comprida and Covão dos Conchos, but such was not possible due to weather conditions. Alternatively, we visited several historical villages;

Day 4 – walking route PR1 in Manteigas, around the Poço do Inferno waterfall. Then return home.

We left our house in the morning, and stopped for lunch in the town of Vila Velha de Rodão, by the side of the river Tejo. There are many interesting places to visit nearby, but time was short. Still, you can find a pre-historic site where Neanderthals lived during the Paleolithic. As a geologist, I could not miss the geomonument of Portas (Gates) do Rodão, where during millions of years the Tejo has eroded and cut through hard quartzitic rocks.

Panorama of Portas do Rodão, a geological heritage site.

The rest of the drive was uneventful, and in the afternoon we visited Guarda, the highest city in Portugal, located at 1056 m of altitude. The city has a rich historical record, which is a result of human occupation since prehistoric times; Romans, Visigoths, Arabs, Jews, Christians, all have lived in these lands. It was in Guarda that the first literary text in Portuguese was written, in the year of 1189. Walking along its narrow medieval streets, one can feel history coming out of every granite block.

Nowhere else is this feeling stronger than in the imposing cathedral. Built between 1390 and 1540, it has been compared to a ship of granite, thanks to its impressive size and to the panoramic view from its terrace. From there, one feels like being on a ship, admiring the surrounding landscape. The thick granite walls and the size of the cathedral also speak about its protective role for the population. I recommend to visit the cathedral, to admire the magnificent architectural work; as I have mentioned already, you can also climb to the terrace to admire the views. The altarpiece was sculpted in 1553 and represents scenes from the Old and New Testaments.

In the main square in front of the cathedral, there is a statue of Dom Sancho I, the second king of Portugal, who in 1199 gave the city its foral (charter). The presence of granite as a source of construction material is everywhere, and even today it is abundantly used. The wind is quite strong, and cold, so we look for a bit of respite in a nearby coffee, before continuing our walk. It is wonderful to simply walk around, experiencing the history that exudes from every corner. What follows is a selection of the many photos that I took in the city. For this trip I carried: Fujifilm X-T3 and X-T4; Fujinon 16mm f/1.4 and 33mm f/1.4 lenses; tripod.

Panorama of the Mondego river valley near Cavadoude, where our accommodation was located.

Historical center and surrounding landscape, seen from the cathedral’s terrace.

View from the top of the Ferrarias tower, including the cathedral and the keep.

View from the keep, with the cathedral in front and Spain in the horizon.

Cathedral at sunset. The light was low so I had to use the tripod.

At the end of the day we had dinner in Guarda, tasting some of the famous regional culinary dishes. A great way to finish our first day in the region.

An afternoon with the white storks of Cabo Sardão, in SW Portugal

Every year I do my best to photograph this unique species of birds. Like them, I return seasonally to this location in the beginning of Spring. That is when they come back to nest in the coastal cliffs and sea stacks, the only species of white stork in the world that does that. The last time I visited the location in the early morning, in May 2022, and I wrote about the experience here:

White storks in the early morning

This time I went to Cabo Sardão during the late afternoon, and I was happy to see that the nests were occupied. There is a small bay in front of the lighthouse, where several species of birds can be seen; besides the white storks, there are cormorants, and even a couple of peregrine falcons (these are more elusive). Plus, of course, lots of seagulls.

Cabo Sardão at sunset. The sea stack in the middle of the photo is home to three stork nests.

The afternoon was nice, with sunshine and some clouds. The wind was weak, which is unusual for this area, but the sea was very rough, with large waves. It was the first day of Spring, which is the equinox, so the tides were strong.

I used my Fujinon 70-300mm zoom lens and the Fujifilm X-T4 camera for the bird photos. Walking around the cliff edge along the bay, it is possible to get some nice vantage points looking down, from where to photograph the nests. The conditions were good, and compared to previous visits, the rough sea and crashing waves provided some different and really interesting backgrounds. These convey the difficult conditions these birds endure, because the nests were being hit by sea spray; I was further up from the sea and I was being hit by sea spray.

One of the couples of storks was busy ensuring the next generation will be born soon. This was an endearing moment and the first time I have witnessed this behavior. Maybe next month the little ones will be in their nests.

If you have them, take a pair of binoculars to scout the cliffs. That was how I managed to spot a small cormorant on the cliff’s face.

I spend the rest of the time until sunset watching these wonderful birds, and I hope to go back in April to check on the new babies. It is a great time to visit these shores.

Route 16 of the Rota Vicentina, in SW Portugal

With the end of the trail season approaching (the temperature is increasing with the beginning of Spring), last week I have walked a short circular route near Amoreira beach, Aljezur. The map is shown below.

Map of route 16 of the Rota Vicentina (in blue).

This is a short (7 km) and easy walking path that starts in Amoreira beach, at the mouth of the Aljezur brook. From the beach, the trail heads to the interior, crossing a small valley before climbing to the top of the plateau. I stopped in the valley to photograph the numerous red poppies, which add a colorful touch to the landscape. I also found a small frog in a nearby pond.

After a couple of kilometers, the trail starts to cross the plateau, which is dominated by small brushes and pine trees. Here and there, a few farms dot the landscape, with cultivated fields and grazing animals.

Roughly mid way in the trail, the path turns and heads back to the coast; now the sand dunes prevail, with pine forests and shrubs. During springtime, several typical flowers are in bloom, and I stop to photograph them, using a close-up diopter filter in the telephoto zoom lens.

After reaching the coast, I highly recommend to make a small detour to visit the beautiful Carriagem beach. I was short on time, because sunset was approaching fast, but I could not resist making a few photos. During low tide, the erosional patterns on the rock formations resemble plowed furrows. They are the result of the water cutting horizontally through the folded layers of rock, exposing their internal geometric pattern.

Carriagem beach, with its famous eroded rock formations.

From Carriagem it is only a short walk back to Amoreira, where this particular erosion effect is also present. It really adds a special interest to the landscape. the sun had barely set behind the clouds, resulting in a soft light that was adequate to photograph these dark rock formations.

Amoreira beach, with its wonderful rock outcrops.

Even though this is a short route, there are may interesting things to see, as the path crosses different ecosystems and landscapes, including the rural interior and the coastal environments. It was the first time I walked this trail, and I am sure I will go back. In terms of photo gear, as usual I carried two cameras (Fuji’s X-T3 and X-T4) and two lenses (Fujinon’s 16mm f/1.4 and 70-300mm f/4.5-f/5.6), plus the tripod.

A coastal walk between Vila do Bispo and Sagres, Southwest Portugal

During the first quarter of 2023, I have walked several trails of the Rota Vicentina, which is a vast network of walking and cycling paths located in the Southwest Alentejo and Vicentina Coast Natural Park. I normally walk in the circular routes because the logistics are easier. However, there are a few non-circular routes that I wanted to walk, notably the one between the villages of Vila do Bispo and Sagres, in the Algarve region of the park. Throughout the years I have visited this area a few times, in particular some beautiful locations such as the lighthouse in São Vicente, and the beaches of Telheiro and Ponta Ruiva. As such, I wanted to go back this year and walk the complete trail, not only parts of it.

This corresponds to route TP-09, which is stage 9 of the Trilho dos Pescadores, or Fishermen’s Trail. The latter is a long 180 km route that follows along this entire coast, roughly between Sines and Sagres. The map below shows only the path for stage 9.

Map of route TP-09 of the fishermen’s trail of the Rota Vicentina.

I chose to start the walk in Vila do Bispo, where I left my car. There is a regular bus service between Sagres and Vila do Bispo, or taxi services, to return. There are more buses during school days compared to weekends, so I recommend you do a bit of research beforehand. At the end of the day, it works alright.

The weather forecast for the day was sunny and mild, which was perfect for a long walk. Spring has arrived in full force, coloring the landscape with many flowers. In fact, one of my interests in this walk was to spend some time searching and photographing several species of flowers that are typical of this region. For such, I had with me an old high quality close-up filter (or diopter lens) to mount on my Fujinon 70-300mm lens; this combination is very good for near macro photography, and I got nice images.

Leaving Vila do Bispo, the path heads directly to the coast, climbing gently until it reaches the coastal plateau. Along the way, some red poppies start to appear in the countryside. It is an easy going and enjoyable walk, and also quite popular, judging by the number of people on the trail. Indeed, when I walk in the interior routes, I normally don’t see anybody, but here that is not the case. Nevertheless, the only sounds I hear are the strong wind and the chirping of small birds.

My first planned stop is at Ponta Ruiva (or red rock point), which owes its name to the strong red color of the outcropping rocks. Along the way, I photograph a few more flowers. Some of them are really small, only 1 or 2 cm in diameter; this, plus the constant wind, makes for challenging photographing conditions, but I am patient. There is always a lull in the wind, just 1 or 2 seconds when the wind abates, and that is when I take the photo.

Scrambling Gromwell. This is a tiny flower with a strong color.

At the middle of the day, the light is not the most interesting one, so I decide to go for long exposures at Ponta Ruiva, using a neutral density filter. The blue of the sea is really vivid, and the coastal cliffs are more than 100 m high; down below, the waves crash incessantly against the rocks. We are close to Torre da Aspa, the highest point in the west coast of the Algarve, and it shows.

A note of caution, which is actually valid for this entire coastal region: the wind is normally strong here, so take proper care when approaching the edge of the cliffs. I keep walking, already with the Cabo São Vicente and its lighthouse visible in the distance. But before arriving there, it is time for a picnic lunch in the Telheiro beach. This beach is famous for its geology, notably an angular unconformity, where the more recent rock strata overlies the near vertical older rocks below. This means that the older rocks were compressed by huge tectonic forces, uplifted and eroded for millions of years, before the younger ones were deposited over them. The best location to see this is on the northern part of the cliff, which is only accessible during low tide. Unfortunately, this is not the case, so I will have to go back another time. Still, this geometric relationship can be also be seen from above, even though it is not the optimal view. Along the trail near Telheiro, it is possible to see some endemic and rare plants, which grow in the calcareous soil of this area.

Gum cistus. It is a rare and endangered plant, endemic to southwest Algarve.

Grey-leaved Cistus. The flowers only last 1 day.

After Telheiro, the path enters an area composed of limestone rock, which has been eroded, creating a typical karstic landscape. The terrain is made up of loose rocks and is not level, so be careful not to twist an ankle. Many plants are in bloom, some with tiny flowers sheltered amongst the rocks, where the sand has accumulated.

After a while, I arrive at São Vicente, but I do not stop there, since I plan to return at sunset. So I keep walking towards Sagres, leaving the path now and then to see the views from the top of the cliffs. It is worth stopping in Beliche to see the fort with the chapel, and the beach with the same name. The landscape here is amazing, with large promontories jutting into the sea. In the distance, it is possible to see the famous Sagres fort, from where the Portuguese Age of Discoveries was planned. People used to say that the world ended here, and one can appreciate why, when facing this endless sea.

Cave near Sagres. The waves go inside and are pulverized, resulting in foam and mist coming out. Sagres fort is in the distance

Panorama of the same location as in previous photo.

I finally arrive in Sagres, and I am lucky because I do not have to wait long for the bus to Vila do Bispo. As a note, the bus stop is right next to the tourism office in the centre of the village. It is only a 10 minute ride back to Vila do Bispo, so pretty soon I am back where I started.

I rest for a little while, before driving to São Vicente for some photography at sunset. The lighthouse is a popular place with tourists, and a great viewpoint from which to admire the surrounding landscape. The sheer vertical cliffs dropping down from the plateau into the deep blue ocean below, with the crashing waves, make for a beautiful scenery. Again, please be careful if you venture into the cliffs, because the wind is really strong; a sudden change of wind direction can be dangerous if you are too close to the edge. I sit down on some rocks and set up the camera in the tripod to make some photos.

Looking north from the Cabo São Vicente.

Same as above, this time with a telephoto lens. The colorful rocks in the middle distance are in Telheiro beach.

Watching the sun going down near the lighthouse was the perfect way to end this memorable day in this beautiful region.

On the trail in route 7 of the Rota Vicentina, SW Portugal

I have walked several trails of the Rota Vicentina since January, with a mix of new and old ones. After a few years of walking in this wonderful SW region, I have a few favorite routes, including this one. Looking at my records, it was the fifth time that I have walked this trail since 2019; in fact, I do this trail every year. So what makes this route so special? In my opinion, if you want to experience the character of the interior region of Odemira, this trail is perfect. It takes you along beautiful rural landscapes, where you can find very old cork oaks, typical farm houses, and panoramic views from the top of the hills.

Spring is a good time to visit, with the fields covered in green grass, and several wildflowers in bloom. Of course I had my camera with me, and of course it was a challenge to try and come away with different photos from the other visits… I have seen this landscape at the end of summer, when it is dry and brown, and at the end of winter, when it is wet and green. What follows is a collection of the photos I made during this latest visit, with my trusty Fujinon 33mm lens, a standard for the APSC format.

Map of route 7, which is located a few km east of the village of São Luis.

“Erva das Sete Sangrias”, or *Lithodora prostrata*. These tiny blue flowers are quite vivid in color.

View from the chapel hill. This part of the countryside still has a large area of cork oaks.

The small chapel of Nossa Senhora das Neves.

The pink heather attracts a lot of bees, which results in very tasty honey.

Spring has arrived. This is a panorama assembled from 8 photos.

Weekend bikers near the village of Monte da Estrada, one of the possible starting points for this trail route.

On the trail in route 19 of the Rota Vicentina, SW Portugal

As I mentioned in my last blog entry, this month I have walked two routes of the Rota Vicentina for the first time. Today I want to write about route 19, which is located near the village of Bordeira, as indicated in the map below. It is actually located close to route 21 which I have described before, near Carrapateira.

This is one of the longest circular routes but it does not have any steep inclines, so it is easy going. The village of Bordeira is nested in the flank of a gentle hill, and has several interesting points, like its church, which dates from the middle of the 15th century.

Route 19 is also known as route PR3 of the Aljezur municipality.

Leaving Bordeira, the path quickly enters a forested area, where cork oaks predominate. The weather is slightly overcast, with the clouds acting like a giant umbrella, softening the light.

View over the valley near the beginning of the trail.

Near the middle of the trail, there is a nice valley which is covered in green grass, surrounded by large oak trees. There are also some flowers that have bloomed in the fields. I spend some time here, before resuming the walk.

My next stop is in a lake created by a small reservoir used for the cattle. The wind creates ripples in the surface of the water. I rest for a while and make a few photos.

The path continues to climb in a gentle fashion, until it reaches the top of the mountain. The wind is stronger now, and the vegetation is scarce; in the distance I can see a sliver of the ocean near the horizon. A good part of the walk goes along the top, before descending into another green valley.

As I approach a group of abandoned farms known as Samouqueira, I notice a couple of bikers on the road. I take the opportunity to make a few interesting photos. Once they disappear in the distance a complete silence descends again over the landscape.

From Samouqueira only a few easy going km remain until arriving back in Bordeira. This part of the walk follows the Bordeira valley, parallel to the black top road. This was without a doubt another excellent route to walk, and for sure I will return in the future.

I stopped in Aljezur on the way back home, and made a panorama of the village.

On the trail along route 21 of Rota Vicentina, SW Portugal

Just a few days ago I had the opportunity of walking a couple of new (for me) circular routes in the Rota Vicentina. Today I want to describe my experience in route 21, which is located near the village of Carrapateira, in the western coast of Algarve. This is a popular destination, thanks to the several spectacular beaches in the vicinity, like Carrapateira, Amado, and Murração. There are several routes that follow the coastal areas, but this one heads off towards the mountainous interior (see map below).

Before arriving in Carrapateira, you will notice that the topography changes, with the appearance of rounded hills covered in short trees and shrubs. In between these hills there are valleys where ephemerous creeks run after rainy periods. It had rained a few days before I walked this trek, so the landscape was greener than usual, and even some flowers had appeared.

After parking the car in the village, it is easy to find the beginning of the trail. The initial km follow a dirt road that climbs gently between hilly terrain, before reaching the top of the first mountain; from here it is possible to see a few beaches in the distance. I make a few photos along the way, the day is sunny but cold, with crisp air and a stiff breeze. It is interesting to appreciate the dual nature of this region, characterized by the close proximity between the coastal and rural areas.

Beginning of the trail, with Carrapateira in the distance.

View from the top of the hills, with Carrapateira in the distance.

Continuing to walk inland, I arrive at a nice viewpoint that affords a fantastic view over the Serra Algarvia, with the Monchique mountain in the far distance. The nearby mountains are covered with cork oaks, pines, and arbutus. From here, the trail descends steeply into the Vilarinha valley, where a few houses make up a small village. Some cattle is grazing in the fields. This is a wonderful part of the walk, as it crosses lush land. The only people I meet are a couple of cyclists and a farmer tending to the cows.

After crossing Vilarinha, I find a nice spot to have a picnic lunch and I rest for a while. The rest of the trail continues along the top of the hills, affording some good views of the surrounding landscape, before descending into Carrapateira.

Arriving back at Carrapateira, near the end of the route.

After walking this route for the first time, I can say that it became one of my favourites. On the way back home, I made two extra stops, the first one in the iconic beach of Arrifana, and the second one in the windmill of Rogil, another local landmark. Arrifana is simple a beautiful beach, more so in a winter afternoon, with only the surfers around. I waited there for the sunset, and made several photos.

Panorama of the Serra Algarvia, with Monchique in the distance. Taken from the side of the road between Aljezur and Arrifana.

Arrifana beach view from the top. There is a steep and narrow path that leads to this viewpoint, on the south of the beach.

I was lucky to be at Rogil a few minutes after sunset, when the sky was filled with soft pink and purple colours. It was an excellent way to finish this wonderful day.

In the countryside along route 13 of Rota Vicentina, SW Portugal

This is one of the many routes of the Rota Vicentina network in southwest Portugal, and passes through the villages of Santa Clara-a-Velha, Sabóia and Totenique. The area is characterized by a rural landscape, where small farms can be found dispersed in the hills. Details can be found in the following link:

https://rotavicentina.com/en/trilhos/discovering-totenique/

A general map is shown below as a quick reference for this 13.5 km walk.

Trail number 13 of the Rota Vicentina, shown on the western side of the map.

The trail starts in Santa Clara-a-Velha, a small village near the river Mira, following the river valley along the first half of it. You can park your car near the tourism office and perhaps get some supplies from the local café. From here, the path crosses the river in a pleasant wooded area. There has been a drought in the last couple of years, so this part of the river is normally dry, but due to recent rainfalls, the water is running again.

Rural fields in winter, before Santa Clara-a-Velha.

The first few kilometres of the trail are easy to walk, crossing hilly terrain before arriving at the Santa Clara and Sabóia train station. From the top of a hill, the scenery is nice, with a succession of green valleys and mountains.

View over the Santa Clara and Sabóia train station.

After so many months of drought, the rainfalls in December have changed the landscape completely. The ground is covered with green grass, and there are many patches of flowers. Looks like spring has arrived during the winter, a feeling that is reinforced by the balmy temperatures. Leaving the train station behind, the trail then crosses several farms located in a valley, and I stop here and there to make some photos.

Even though it is mid morning, the winter sun is low in the sky, and as I climb the shaded side of a hill, I notice many spider webs in the ground. These are covered with water droplets from the night’s moisture and morning dew. Mushrooms are also conspicuous, and come in different varieties.

It is almost time for a picnic lunch, so I take a well deserved rest near the small group of houses that are known as Totenique. Most of them are abandoned, but the fields are still cultivated and there is some cattle grazing nearby. The name comes from the nearby creek, one of the river Mira subsidiaries. As I cross a small bridge, I notice the pattern of the sunlight’s reflection on the surface of the water, almost like dancing ripples.

The last part of the trail traverses the Totenique valley, before a steep climb reaches the top of the mountain. From here there is a nice view over the valley to the west, and it is an appropriate time to take a breather.

It is also worth admiring the view towards Santa Clara-a-Velha in the east, before descending into the village, where this circular trail ends.

When I visit this place, I like to go to the Santa Clara-a-Velha dam, where the water from the river Mira is captured, forming one of the largest lakes in Portugal. With the approach of sunset, the temperature dropped a bit, and a stiff wind started to blow, creating ripples on the surface of the water. I was glad to see that, compared to summertime, the level of the water seems to have risen about 5 or 6 metres, which is great news.

Another local attraction worth visiting is the Dona Ana bridge, a medieval structure close to Santa Clara-a-Velha. This is an old stone bridge over the river Mira, but unfortunately only half of the span remains. Depending on the season and amount of water in the river, it may be more or less difficult to walk down to the bank. This time I was lucky, as the river had plenty of water.

Medieval bridge in the river Mira near Santa Clara-a-Velha.

As always, in terms of my photography, I like to keep things simple. For this walk I carried only my wide angle (Fujinon 16mm f/1.4) and standard (Fujinon 33mm f/1.4) lenses in my backpack. This was another happy day in one of the trails of the Rota Vicentina.